Diane had a question…sooner or later, ALL ID dressmakers will have to deal with this one!
I have a dress that I made this past spring that was just fine on the dancer when she got it, and quite honestly, is fine on her now – when she’s standing in a normal position. But, when she gets ready to dance, she pulls her shoulders back, puts her stomach and chest out and it makes the skirt stick put funny. Of course, it’s all a problem with the dress, not the dancer.
I was thinking that the best way to remedy this problem on the dress, short of standing behind the dancer on stage and telling her not to stick her belly out – was to drop the center front of the bodice – graduated from side seam to side seam, so that it was nothing at the side seam and 1″ at the center front. I was thinking that maybe the center skirt front needed the same thing, but then just pinning it, it looked funny. Unfortunately, she’ll be loosing a good bit of her bodice let down room- about half – but that’s life.
Diane’s idea is right, change the angle of the skirt attachment, but there is a fairly easy way to accomplish this: the Triangle Method!
Here’s my answer to her:
Hi Diane, All you need is to haul it up into the side seams.
Triangle method: I always do this with the bodice sewn on the right way (meaning I don’t remove the skirt to fix this), then I go back in and draw a line from the waist seam at the front dart/princess seam up to a point that is about ½” higher than the waist seam on the bodice side seam, and then back down to the waist seam at the back dart, pin the skirt and bodice together, and then sew this new line on both sides. It accomplishes what you need without having to change the length of the front skirt…it just changes the length of the side, but no one ever notices. This will help flatten the skirt and counteract what the dancer is doing. Susan wrote about this thing exactly here: “Brainstorm alert – The Unified Quantum Theory of the Skirt Hang”
The one thing about this problem is that dancers really do slip back into a more natural posture once they start moving. I do make this change when it is a glaring issue, but I also tell the dancer and the mom exactly why the problem is happening in the first place!
If this is unclear, please let me know.
For more about fitting issues caused by the exaggerated dance posture: Fitting issues: Dancer mis-alignment